Tom Jones of the Whalley Wine Shop explores the Spanish wine regions

Its sometimes easy to get stuck on the idea that Spanish red means Rioja and Spanish white Albarino, but a look at our shelves shows that’s just not the case.
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Here’s a very brief, whistle-stop tour of the different Spanish wine regions…

Although we’re being advised not to visit, Spain’s different wine regions are hugely diverse and offer great opportunities to explore different grapes and alternative styles. Its sometimes easy to get stuck on the idea that Spanish red means Rioja and Spanish white Albarino, but a look at our shelves shows that’s just not the case.

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“I like Rioja...” Is one of the most uttered phrases in a UK wine shop. And that’s great, meaning you know the region, grape and style you like. But it doesn’t mean you have to stick to Rioja.

Spanish wine bars stock more than just Rioja or Albarino 
Picture: LEEROY AGENCY/PIXABAYSpanish wine bars stock more than just Rioja or Albarino 
Picture: LEEROY AGENCY/PIXABAY
Spanish wine bars stock more than just Rioja or Albarino Picture: LEEROY AGENCY/PIXABAY

Here’s a very brief, whistle-stop tour of the different Spanish wine regions…

Ribera del Duero is a high quality wine producing area on the Duero river (Douro in Portugal) sitting south west of Rioja but producing wines from the same main grape, Tempranillo. If you like Rioja, make sure you explore wines from Ribera! The fantastic value ‘Bela’, 2018, 14% - £12.99 is great expression of Tempranillo fruit. A darker and slightly richer style than Rioja, but with the same comforting base notes. Dark hedgerow fruit lifted with the brightness of red currant, a waft of spice and a soft touch of oak. A great alternative to Rioja.

Priorat is a fabulous region in Catalunya. Famous for old vine Garnacha and winemaker Marco Abella is a wizard with it. We stock a range of his wines but the ‘Mas Mallola’ 2015, 14.5% - £24.99 just hits the sweet spot. Stunning, concentrated, juicy fruit with a lick of wild bramble and herb. Meaty, bold and dense – a fabulous wine with roast lamb.

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Sommontano is one of Spain’s most interesting yet also controversial areas. Without a massive winemaking history they were given ‘experimental status’ and allowed to plant numerous ‘international’ grape varieties, like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon. The Pasotismo from Paso Primero is superb. Long story, short version. Englishman Tom Holt likes wine, studies at a UK college to learn how to make it and gains winemaking degree. Works in New Zealand, then Canada making wine and meets his wife). They decide they want their own vineyard and buy land in Somontano, south of the Pyrenees, making a great range of wines, and gaining recognition, winning Wine Story of the Year at the People’s Choice Wine Awards. The Pasotismo 2018, 15%, £19.99 is the top wine in their range. Massive, punchy fruit and spice and full of power. Like big reds? Buy this.

Tom Jones of the Whalley Wine ShopTom Jones of the Whalley Wine Shop
Tom Jones of the Whalley Wine Shop

Touching on those ‘experimental’ varieties, Vinas del Vero are a huge winemaker in Somontano. Their Gewurtztraminer (a variety normally found in Germany and Alsace) is superb. Gewurtz often shows an overbearing floral, rose petal, Turkish delight style, but this is just beautiful. Delicate, fresh, spritzy with the wonderful floral hint Gewurtz is famous for. Beautiful aperitif white, perfect for spicy food. Vinas del Vero Gewurtztraminer, 2019, 13% - £11.99.

Rueda. Wonderful, wonderful Rueda. If you like Sauvignon Blanc, you need to start looking at Rueda. The grape variety used is Verdejo and it has the same fabulous freshness, bracing acidity and clean lime citrus fruit that good Sauvignon does. Super fresh and vibrant the Bardos Verdejo 2019, 13% - 13.99, is a cracking example.

Penedes is the region even closer to Barcelona and made famous by the Torres family, who have been pioneers bringing an entire region up to prominence. The wine I love is the Jean Leon 3055 Merlot/Petit Verdot 2018, 14.5% - £13.99. I just don’t have space to tell you this fascinating story about this wine. It involves taxis, James Dean, Marilyn Monroe, JFK, wine, boats... the list goes on! Safe to say this modern red is a superb blend of plump Merlot and rich, dense Petit Verdot. One of the most under-appreciated reds we stock.

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This roll call of great Spanish wine regions could go on and on – Jumilla, Yecla, Navarra, Toro, Rias Baixas, Bierzo, La Mancha, Jerez – all produce excellent quality wines with regional variance. Spain is diverse, fascinating and endlessly explorable.

Yes, Rioja can be great, but please don’t get stuck there…

The quality of Cava

While talking about Spanish wine regions, it’s always worth celebrating cava (made around Catalunya), Spain’s wonderful sparkling wine.

Cava is NOT the same as prosecco. There are many excellent proseccos but it is made in a bulk ‘tank method’. Cava, on the other hand, is made the same way as Champagne. A far more time consuming and expensive process. Each bottle is made sparkling individually in the ‘Method Traditional’ or more scientifically ‘Second fermentation in bottle’ method. The grapes are different and the ageing or maturing of the wine is different but the method is the same. Cava is truly a slight class above prosecco.

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